August 11, 2004

North Beach Pasta

One of the paradoxes of many ethnic neighborhoods in the City is the lack of solid restaurants that you can recommend without reservation to friends. I've lived in San Francisco for close to a decade and I still don't know of a place in Chinatown that I can suggest to friends visiting from out of town. It's just silly how many dingy, expensive and just plain lame restaurants are in that district. My best guess is that their clientele consists mainly of tourists who will not be repeat costumers and so they have no motiviation to try very hard in providing good food and service. They only need to be good at getting customers into their restaurants the first, and only, time. It's not like there aren't great Chinese restaurants in the rest of the city, Eliza's and Yank Sing to name a couple. If anyone has suggestions for Chinatown proper, please let me know!

The same goes for North Beach. Columbus Avenue is lined with tourist traps hoping to hustle out-of-towners out of their hard earned cash. Sure, there are some quasi-famous places that get a lot of repeat business from locals, the Stinking Rose and the Steps of Rome come to mind, but I can't explain why people go back to these places since the food and service is usually pedestrian and lacking in most regards. That being said, Rose Pistola is one of the few places that has consistently delivered but it's pretty expensive for most budgets. My other current favourites are Caffe Delucchi and Caffe Macaroni. Caffe Delucchi also has the distinction of being the first restaurant that Sophia visited. She slept quietly throughout our lunch and so I've decided it receives special distinction.

Given this unfortunate state of affairs, I was delighted when Edwin told me that the Chronicle did a piece on this issue last week. It is with relish that I link to the Chronicle's review of pasta at 41 restaurants in North Beach. After scanning the top picks, listed below, I'm sure you'll agree that I've got my work cut out for me. I'll have to post back with my take in this list at some point in the future.

The great North Beach pasta hunt
After visiting more than 40 restaurants, we uncover the best
 Tara Duggan, Lesli Neilson, Chronicle Staff Writers
Wednesday, August 4, 2004

BEST OVERALL

  • Albona Ristorante Istriano. Come here for personal service and Istrian specialties, as well as a mean fettuccine arrabbiata. 545 Francisco St. (at Mason); (415) 441-1040. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday.
  • Caffe Puccini. The Tuscan-born owner of this popular espresso bar added a pasta menu a few years ago and makes all the hearty sauces himself, including a delicious marinara. (See recipe on next page.) 411 Columbus Ave. (near Vallejo); (415) 989-7033. Lunch and dinner daily.
  • Da Flora. Done up in burgundy red, this is one of the neighborhood's most romantic restaurants, and it features delicious handmade pastas. 701 Columbus (at Filbert); (415) 981-4664. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday.
  • Ristorante Ideale. The modern decor and light touch with pasta and seafood put this restaurant a step above more touristy offerings. 1309 Grant (near Vallejo); (415) 391-4129. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday.
  • Rose Pistola. Top chefs come and go at this upscale restaurant, but the pasta is consistently excellent, especially those with seafood. 532 Columbus (near Green); (415) 399-0499. Lunch and dinner daily..
THE NEXT BEST
  • Franchino. A welcoming atmosphere and zesty tomato sauce make this restaurant feel like a trattoria on the Amalfi Coast. 347 Columbus Ave. (near Vallejo); (415) 982-2157. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday.
  • Macaroni Sciue Sciue. This restaurant earned our top score for linguine with clams, made Neapolitan-style with garlic, parsley and olive oil. (See recipe next page.) 124 Columbus Ave. (near Jackson); (415) 217-8400. Lunch and dinner daily.
  • Panta Rei. The chef at this relative newcomer makes a rich, long-simmered tomato sauce. 431 Columbus Ave. (at Stockton); (415) 591-0900. Lunch and dinner daily.
  • Pinocchio. In a triangular wedge of a space with tons of windows and retro Italian posters, this restaurant serves balanced sauces and hearty servings. 401 Columbus Ave. (at Vallejo); (415) 392-1472. Lunch and dinner daily.
  • Washington Square Bar and Grill. A neighborhood classic, the Washbag makes the best puttanesca sauce ever, served over delicate capellini. 1707 Powell St. (near Union); (415) 982-8123. Lunch weekdays, dinner nightly and brunch weekends. .
Posted by payam at August 11, 2004 11:30 AM | TrackBack